Is your Mulberry bag real? This question has become increasingly relevant as both vintage and pre-loved Mulberry bags have increased in popularity – and unfortunately, also in the number of fakes.
Models like the Bayswater, Alexa and Antony are among the most iconic and sought-after – and at the same time some of the most copied. Today, however, almost all Mulberry bags are imitated, regardless of year, size or model. That is why it is more important than ever to be able to distinguish between authentic craftsmanship and mass-produced copies.
In this guide you will find thorough and practical advice on how to assess the authenticity of a bag yourself – regardless of whether you are considering buying vintage, pre-loved or are just curious.
This guide is for informational purposes only and is based on publicly available information, industry sources, collector archives, authentication databases, applicable Industry Authentication Standards and many years of experience with authentic Mulberry bags.
In this guide, we will review:
1. Leather types: modern and vintage
2. Hardware: zippers, straps and Postman’s Lock
3. Stitching and edging: precision and craftsmanship
4. What types of lining and interior details characterize a genuine Mulberry bag
5. How to recognize the branding and logo on a genuine Mulberry bag – embossing and printing
6. The metal disc and the serial number
7. Where is the bag made? – and what does the label reveal?
8. Final advice: What should you always check when assessing the authenticity of a Mulberry bag?
1. Leather types: modern and vintage
Mulberry is known for its uncompromising leather quality. Whether you’re holding a new or vintage bag in your hand, the genuine leather will always be full of character, vibrant and durable. In this section, we review the most important leather types – both modern and classic – and show you what to look for to recognize authenticity.
Modern leather types from Mulberry (approx. 2015–2025)
Used in today’s collections – focus on durability, texture and a luxurious feel:
- Classic Grain – Textured, scratch-resistant cowhide with a matte surface. Very durable and suitable for everyday use.
- Small Classic Grain – Finer version of Classic Grain with more uniform grain.
- Heavy Grain – Coarse-grained, stronger structure. Gives a more raw, masculine look.
- Natural Vegetable Tanned (NVT) – Smooth, untreated cowhide that develops a natural patina over time.
- Silky Calf – Very smooth and soft calfskin with a slight sheen. Elegant and exclusive.
- Smooth / Box Calf – Uniform and minimalist leather with a slight shine. Classic and modern expression.
- Velvet Calf – Lightly brushed calfskin with a velvety surface and discreet shine.
- Croc Embossed Leather – Embossed calf or cowhide with a crocodile structure. Elegant and structured.
- Patent Leather – Patented, high-gloss leather. Rarely used in newer collections.
- Suede – Soft and matte leather with a vibrant texture. Delicate and requires impregnation.
- Nubuck – Finer and more polished than suede – very soft, but also delicate.
- Goatskin – Light and durable with a fine grain structure and natural shine.
- Ox Leather – Strong and shape-retaining leather from adult oxen. Often used as a base in Classic Grain and NVT.
💡 Expert tip: Genuine Mulberry leather feels natural and vibrant – fake bags often have a plasticky finish, a strong chemical smell or unnatural stiffness.
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Did you know?
Mulberry was founded in 1971 in Somerset, England – initially focusing on belts and small leather goods. It wasn’t until the 1980s that the brand really started producing the bags that are now considered iconic. Here, materials such as Darwin leather, Congo and Buffalo became a central part of Mulberry’s aesthetic and heritage.
These leathers are not only beautiful and durable – they also tell the story of a British brand with deep roots in traditional craftsmanship.
Vintage leathers from Mulberry (c. 1980–2010)
Used in older collections – known for their character, durability and beautiful patina.
Since its founding in 1971, Mulberry has been synonymous with classic British leather craftsmanship. The older leathers from the brand’s earlier decades have achieved iconic status among collectors and connoisseurs. They are characterized by their authentic expression, natural aging and impressive durability – and many vintage bags only become more beautiful with time.
Each leather type tells its own story and contributes to the bag’s unique expression.
- Vintage leather types from Mulberry (approx. 1980–2010)
Used in older collections – known for their character, durability and beautiful patina:
- Darwin Leather – Thick, vegetable tanned cowhide with raw, waxed surface. Develops a warm glow and patina with use.
- Vintage NVT – Untreated leather with a matte surface, which darkens and gains depth over time. Delicate at first, but develops beautifully.
- Croc Embossed NVT – Vegetable tanned leather with deep crocodile embossing and matte finish. Typical of attaché cases and doctor bags from the 80s.
- Antique Glacé Leather – Smooth calfskin with a natural shine from wax treatment (not varnish). Aged with a play of colors and a vintage look.
- Scotchgrain Leather – Coarse-grained, embossed and often coated leather. Extremely durable and suitable for travel bags and weekend bags.
- Buffalo Leather – Strong, coarsely textured leather with natural folds and an uneven surface. Very robust and dimensionally stable.
- Glove Leather – Very soft and flexible calfskin without a clear structure. Used in small bags and vintage clutches.
- Saddle Leather – Thick and stiff leather inspired by saddlery craftsmanship. Patinas darker and becomes more shiny with age.
- Pebbled Calf (early) – Early version of embossed calfskin with live grain and soft structure.
- Raw Hide / Rustic Leather – Minimally treated cowhide with natural color variations. Develops a unique, dramatic patina over time.
Summary: How to recognize genuine vintage Mulberry leather
Genuine vintage Mulberry leather:
- Has a natural texture, authentic patina and distinct character
- Develops beautifully over time and ages gracefully
- Feels solid and vibrant – and smells like genuine, untreated leather (never chemically)
Fake or low-quality leathers:
- Often appear flat, stiff or unnaturally smooth
- Lack depth and do not age with the same aesthetics
- Often have an artificial, sour or plastic smell
💡 Expert advice:Use your senses when evaluating a vintage Mulberry bag. Feel the texture of the leather, smell the material and study the patina – authenticity can be felt, not just seen.
Read more in our blog post: “Care of Mulberry bags – how to keep leather beautiful for many years”
2. Hardware: zippers, Postman’s Lock, buckles and straps
When assessing the authenticity of a Mulberry bag, metal fittings and straps are among the most revealing details. The Postman’s Lock in particular – one of the brand’s most iconic elements – can quickly reveal whether it is original craftsmanship or a copy.
Zippers – development and authenticity
The zipper is one of those details that is often overlooked – but it can tell a lot about both the age and authenticity of the bag. Over the years, Mulberry has used different types of zippers, and their development reflects changes in both design and production methods:
- 1990s – early 00s: Many vintage models have Riri zippers, which are known for their durability and high quality. This is a clear characteristic of older, genuine bags.
- Around 2005–2013: Mulberry started using its own zipper pullers with an embossed tree logo with leaves on the back. This iconic symbol is a clear and authentic detail for bags from the period.
- After 2016: Many newer models have zippers without engraving. These are still original and selected with a focus on function and aesthetics. The zipper should slide smoothly and feel solid in use.
Important to know: The absence of a logo on the zipper is not necessarily a sign of a replica. At Mulberry, it is normal for modern zippers to be unsigned – especially in newer collections.
Typical signs of replicas:
- Zippers with uneven or stiff movement
- Incorrect or too deep engravings
- Lightweight metal that feels hollow or is peeling
- Uneven color or finish compared to the rest of the hardware
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Postman’s Lock – classic Mulberry detail
This locking mechanism is seen on many of Mulberry’s most popular models such as the Bayswater, Alexa and Lily. A genuine Postman’s Lock is made of heavy, solid metal with a smooth finish and precise engraving.
Engraving comes in two variants – depending on model and year:
- Older models typically have an embossed wooden logo (the classic Mulberry symbol).
- On newer models, “Mulberry” may be embossed on the hardware – especially on the Postman’s Lock – in a thin and elegant font, both with and without the wooden logo, depending on the model and year of manufacture.
Both versions should be sharp, centered and harmoniously placed.
The wooden logo should reflect the brand’s official design:
- Pointed leaves in the correct number and direction
- A clear, symmetrical and well-balanced shape
Errors in the placement, font or level of detail of the engraving are often signs of a copy.
Typical signs of copies:
- The lock feels light and uneven in the surface
- The engraving is blurred, crooked or completely absent
- The screws on the back have industrial “+” shaped head, not used by Mulberry
- Unoriginal color tone in the metal or visible casting marks
Note: A clear sign of copies – screws with a cross head (+)
One of the most obvious signs of fake Mulberry bags is the use of screws with a cross head (+) on the back of the lock – a detail often seen on low-quality copies.
- Genuine Mulberry bags use only small, straight screws with a flat head (-), which are precisely and discreetly placed
- The shape and quality of the screws is an important indicator when assessing the authenticity of the hardware and finish
Therefore, always pay attention to the type of screws – it’s a small detail, but often enough to reveal a copy.
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Buckles – function and authenticity
Adjustable buckles on genuine Mulberry bags combine functionality with elegant design and solid construction.
Characteristics of original buckles:
- Made of heavy metal with uniform color and finish
- Robust – not hollow or light
- May be embossed with Mulberry logo (not a requirement for all models)
Typical signs of copies:
- Lightweight metal or painted surface that is peeling off
- Crooked or poorly mounted buckles
- Lack of symmetry in the joints
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Straps – leather, stitching and finish
Authentic Mulberry straps reveal the brand’s attention to detail and quality craftsmanship.
💡 Expert advice: What to look for:
- The leather is precisely cut and has even, smooth edge sealing
- The stitching is tight, straight and free of loose threads
- The joints between the strap, buckle and bag are symmetrical and clean
- The color matches the rest of the bag’s leather and finish
Typical signs of copies:
- Glued ends instead of sewn
- Uneven cutting, frayed edges or sloppy coating
- Light metal that does not match the other hardware of the bag
Mulberry Antony – fake vs. genuine
One of the most striking external characteristics of a fake Mulberry Antony compared to a genuine model is the area where the shoulder strap is attached to the hardware.
There are of course other external “red flags” – for example, the quality of the leather, the hardware or the color shade of the shoulder strap.
In this section, however, we will focus specifically on the strap – stitching and finish – and will therefore examine this detail in more detail.
• On the replica, the shape is often square, and the stitching forms a distinctive cross. This gives an unprofessional look, and the stitches often appear uneven or asymmetrical. The assembly is usually less precise and can appear “clumsy” in relation to the other proportions of the bag. The reason is that replica manufacturers choose a simpler and cheaper sewing technique rather than the method used by Mulberry.
• On a genuine Mulberry Antony, the design is consistently rectangular. The clasp is longer than it is wide, and the stitching is tight, symmetrical and precise. No cross or crooked stitches – everything is done to Mulberry’s exacting standards of craftsmanship. This detail supports both the strength of the construction and the harmonious aesthetics of the bag.
When compared side by side, the difference is clear: square shape with cross stitching = replica, rectangular shape with straight, precise stitching = genuine.
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💡 Final advice
When evaluating a Mulberry bag, take the time to inspect the transition between leather and hardware – this is often where the biggest difference between genuine quality and mass production becomes apparent. A well-made Postman’s Lock, solidly mounted buckles and precisely executed straps are strong indicators of authenticity.
You can read more about the details you should always pay attention to in this blog’s point 6: “Final advice – What should you always check when assessing the authenticity of a Mulberry bag?”
3. Stitching and edges: precision and craftsmanship
When assessing a Mulberry bag, stitching and edge finish are some of the most revealing details. They testify to genuine craftsmanship – or lack thereof. Authentic Mulberry bags are characterized by a high degree of precision and consistent quality throughout the entire construction.
Stitching:
- The stitching is always straight, tight and symmetrical – with uniform thread length and depth in each stitch
- Strong and color-coordinated thread is used, which either matches the color of the leather or creates a stylish contrast
- Copies often have uneven stitches, loose threads, asymmetry or cheap thread that quickly wears out
Finishings and reinforcements:
On genuine models, each stitching is finished with discreet backstitching – a technique that reinforces without compromising the aesthetic expression.
- The finishings are symmetrical, precise and integrated into the design
- Copies often have clumsy or messy finishes – with overlapping thread, uneven reinforcement or loose stitching
- In many fake bags, the stitching is “improved” with extra thread or visible knots, which spoils the overall look
Edge coating
Mulberry uses a uniform and smooth edge finish on straps, flaps and edges – both for aesthetics and to protect the leather from moisture and wear.
- The coating is applied evenly and follows the contours of the leather
- Wear over time is normal – especially with intensive use – but the finish should never peel off in flakes
- On copies, the edge treatment may appear imprecise with uneven thickness or application that does not follow the leather’s lines.
💡 Expert tip: The stitching is among the most reliable indicators of authenticity. Even when a bag looks correct at first glance, uneven stitching, asymmetry or loose threads will often reveal that it is a copy. In genuine Mulberry bags, precision and craftsmanship are evident in every stitch.
4. What types of lining are used in genuine Mulberry bags?
Over the years, Mulberry has used different types of lining depending on the model, collection and period. The choice of lining is not only a practical solution, but also an important part of the bag’s aesthetics and authenticity.
- Suede / untreated leather lining – One of the most iconic solutions is the untreated back of the leather – a natural and robust form of raw lining, which is especially seen in classic models such as the Bayswater. Here there is no separate textile lining, but instead the dense and strong suede-like back of the skin, which gives the bag an authentic and honest expression. This type of lining is repeated in several other Mulberry models and is part of the brand’s characteristic craftsmanship. It adds a special charm, because you can both feel and see the quality of the leather itself from the inside. Over time, it develops a beautiful patina, which supports the bag’s vintage feel.
- 100% cotton canvas lining – One of the most common lining types at Mulberry, used in both vintage and newer bags. It is characterized by a dense and durable weave, which makes it both durable and practical in daily use. The colors are often neutral and classic – they discreetly match the leather and the bag’s outer design. The canvas lining is also easy to clean and therefore a functional solution, especially in everyday and travel bags.
- Lining with Mulberry logo (the tree) is primarily found in vintage collections and a few limited editions. In the newer collections from 2025, for example, you can see it in the Small Roxanne model, which is considered a timeless classic. Among vintage bags, Alexa is a clear example.
The lining is made of cotton fabric with a discreet, repeated pattern of Mulberry’s iconic tree symbol. This gives the bag a more refined and luxurious look and at the same time acts as a subtle brand identity that emphasizes the connection to Mulberry’s heritage.
For collectors and experienced buyers, the logo lining is not only a decorative detail, but also an important element in assessing the authenticity of the bag.
- Jacquard tree logo lining – a classic and modern hallmark
In the 1990s and 2000s, Mulberry used an exclusive jacquard-woven lining, where the brand’s iconic tree symbol is repeated in a uniform pattern. However, this type of lining is also found in some newer models and collections. It is made of a dense, heavy cotton with a robust texture, which gives the bag a durable and luxurious look.
The jacquard weave both provides a refined look and acts as a subtle brand marker, supporting the connection to Mulberry’s heritage. For collectors and experienced buyers, the precision and detail of the pattern are an important indicator of authenticity. On genuine bags, the wooden logos appear clear and sharply defined, while on replicas they are often crooked, indistinct or far too large, and the fabric appears thinner and cheaper.
- Microfiber lining – A modern solution, especially found in newer models like Lily. The microfiber is soft, lightweight and resistant to wear, making it a practical alternative to both canvas and leather. It feels luxurious to the touch and gives a more modern, minimalist impression of the bag’s interior. At the same time, it reduces weight and makes the bag more comfortable to use in everyday life. Since microfiber requires a more advanced production process than classic cotton canvas, it is considered a more expensive and exclusive solution. Therefore, it is often used in newer and more luxurious models, where Mulberry wants to combine functionality, lightness and an elegant expression.
- Checkered lining (tartan) – one of Mulberry’s most distinctive features in the 1980s and 1990s. The lining typically has subdued, earthy colors that reflect the design style of the time, and its pattern makes it less vulnerable to visible signs of wear compared to solid-colored linings. Some newer models still use tartan lining, but in a modernized version with clearer contrasts and more vibrant colors – a fresh expression that also provides a clear reference to Mulberry’s vintage roots. For many collectors and buyers, the pattern and quality of the tartan lining are valued as an expression of both the brand’s roots and its special charisma.
- Leather lining – seen in selected luxury models and limited editions, where the inside of the bag is fully lined with genuine leather instead of textile. This solution gives an exclusive and uniform expression, where both the exterior and interior appear to be of the same quality. Leather lining is more durable than cotton or suede while also supporting the structure of the bag. Since leather lining is only found in specific models and periods, it is considered a rare and clear indicator of the authenticity of the bag – and a sought-after characteristic among collectors and buyers. At the same time, it provides a softer and more luxurious feel in use, which can rarely be reproduced in replica models.
What all these materials have in common is that they are carefully selected and adapted to the design and function of the individual bag.
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What do real lining and stitching look like?
Interior details are characterized by precision and quality:
- The lining fits tightly and correctly – without folds, unevenness or sagging
- The stitching is symmetrical, even and free of loose threads
- Pockets, labels and stitching placement are adapted to both the model and the leather type
- Edges and finishes are clean and professionally done
💡 Expert tip: Check how the lining is attached to the sides of the bag – genuine Mulberry bags never have visible glue residue, loose corners or uncoordinated stitches.
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Fake bags: typical signs in the lining
On many copies, the interior quickly reveals low quality:
- Polyester lining that is shiny, synthetic or thin
- Flaws in the pattern – for example, a tree logo that is crooked, unclear or too large
- Asymmetrical stitching, loose threads and poorly placed labels
- Missing functional details that are otherwise typical for the model in question
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Summary
The inside of a genuine Mulberry bag reflects the same level of craftsmanship as the outside. Materials such as dense cotton canvas, raw suede and textile with a wooden logo are used consistently – and in high quality. The interplay between precision, structure and fabric choice is one of the clearest indicators of authenticity.
5. How to recognize the branding and logo on a genuine Mulberry bag – embossing and printing
The internal branding stamp is one of the most crucial characteristics when assessing the authenticity of a Mulberry bag. Over the years, Mulberry has used two different and original methods: heat stamp with color and printed logo.
The location, font and design can vary depending on the type of leather, collection and year of production – which is why it is important to know the small details that distinguish a genuine bag from a copy.
In this section, we show the authentic variants, how they appear on original models, and what typical errors are often seen on counterfeits.
Two authentic methods
Mulberry’s branding comes in two variants, each with its own characteristics:
1. Heat stamp with color (heat stamp + ink)
Here, the embossing itself is combined with a thin layer of special paint, which gives the logo more contrast and durability.
It is important that the contours appear sharp and that the color lies evenly without flowing with the structure of the leather. The leaves in the tree logo must be symmetrical and clearly defined, while the letters in Mulberry must be uniform and precisely placed. The method is used on both older and newer collections, especially where extra visibility is desired.
2. Printed logo (print stamp)
Here the logo is applied directly to the leather with paint, often in gold or silver. It provides high contrast and is the most common method, found on many both vintage and modern models.
A genuine print stamp is always smooth and precise: the letters are correctly spaced with a thin font, and the leaves in the tree logo are clearly defined. Uneven lines, blurred paint or too bold letters are clear signs of a copy.
💡The method varies depending on the model and period, but the result on a genuine Mulberry bag is always the same: a sharp, uniform and professionally executed logo. Small details like the shape of the leaf, the spacing of the letters and the precision of the embossing are crucial in distinguishing originals from copies.
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External logo and font – modern vs. vintage
The font and location of the logo on the outside of the bag varies depending on the model and period. Not all bags have a visible external logo, but it appears in both newer and older collections.
If the bag has an external brand print, the font always follows the brand’s official standards. The font is thin, sans serif, with correct letter spacing, reflecting Mulberry’s current visual identity.
The logo can appear alone as “Mulberry” or in combination with “Mulberry England”.
The placement is centered, harmonious and uniform in both line and embossing depth.
In newer collections, two different methods are used to apply the logo:
1. Embossing stamp without color (classic heat stamp)
The logo is pressed directly into the leather without the use of color. The result is a matte and discreet impression that follows the natural structure of the leather.
A characteristic is that the font appears thin and precise with correct letter spacing. On genuine bags, the print never appears uneven or unclear.
2. Printed logo (print stamp)
Here, the logo is applied to the surface of the leather with color, typically in gold or silver. The method provides a clear contrast and is used on both newer and older models – as mentioned above in connection with external brand printing.
A genuine printed logo always appears sharp and precise: the letters have the correct spacing, the font is thin, and the leaves in the tree logo are clearly defined. Uneven lines, blurred color or letters that are too bold are typical signs of a copy.
Depending on the type of leather, there may also be a slight embossed imprint under the color to ensure better readability of the brand name.
- Vintage models (1990s – early 00s)
If a vintage model has an external logo, the font is always elegant, narrow with serifs and thin in design.
On the outside of a vintage bag, you can find some Sometimes you will see either a separate tree logo or the text “Mulberry England”. There are also models where both the tree logo and the text “Mulberry England” are present together, as shown in the picture on the left.
The embossing is usually deeper and follows the natural structure of the leather, especially on heavy leathers such as Darwin leather.
💡 Expert tip: Over the past 45 years, Mulberry has only made minimal changes to the tree logo, the font and the branding methods. They all have one thing in common: quality is in the details. The design of a bag must always match the model, the type of leather and the specific edition from the year in question.
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Typical errors in copies
Typical errors in copies of Mulberry branding (name and tree logo)
Fake Mulberry bags often feature:
• Wrong font – too thick, with serifs or uneven spacing between letters
• Uneven embossing – too deep, blurry or crooked
• Wrong placement – the stamp is crooked, off-center or the name is too large
• Low-quality paint – logos that smear or extend beyond the edges
• Wrong tree logo – leaves that are asymmetrical, irregularly placed or do not meet Mulberry standards for the period
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💡 Expert tip: Authentic branding on a Mulberry bag is not just a name – it is a sign of thoughtful design and quality craftsmanship. Whether the logo is embossed or printed, it should always be executed with precision and style. Even small errors in font, placement or finish can be important indicators that the bag is not authentic.
6. The metal disk and the serial number
What does a real metal disk look like – and what does the serial number reveal?
Mulberry’s characteristic round metal disk has been a hallmark of the brand’s bags for many years. It serves not only as an aesthetic detail, but also as an important indicator of authenticity – especially in combination with the serial number on the back.
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Front: The iconic tree logo
On genuine bags, the disk is:
- Embossed with Mulberry’s distinctive wooden logo – each leaf shape must be clear, symmetrical and correctly oriented
- Perfectly round and made of solid metal with noticeable weight
- Sharp and harmoniously centered in the embossing
- On certain vintage models, text such as “Mulberry Co.”, “Mulberry Company” or “Mulberry England” can also be seen around the logo
💡 A blurred logo, crooked placement or soft, indistinct leaves are a clear sign of a copy.
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Back: Serial number
On the back of the metal plate, you will usually find an engraved serial number – a key factor in assessing authenticity.
• On vintage models (before 2000), the serial number was often embossed as a thin engraving directly into the metal – without any color filling.
• From the 2000s onwards, Mulberry began using machine-debossed/laser-engraved serial numbers with a clear white finish.
A genuine serial number is also characterised by:
• Clear, precise and uniform engraving in sans-serif font
• Correct centering on the plate
• Unique number for each bag
💡 A painted, black, illegible or misspelled serial number is a sure sign of a copy.
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Known copy numbers
To make it easier to spot fakes, we have compiled a list of 25 of the most common fake serial numbers that are often used on copy bags. If you see one of these numbers on a bag, it is a fake. At Mulberry, each serial number is unique and can never appear on more than one bag.
Typical examples of fake serial numbers:
254571, 026904, 565321, 262541, 258798, 275288, 257528, 373140, 258668, 025869, 932351, 166757, 924565, 249328, 982573, 346352, 207542, 1025858, 757156, 256678, 390207, 256760, 240535, 929976, 929885
🔍 Full list and visual examples can be found in our blog post: “What does a genuine Mulberry serial number look like – and which numbers are typically used on replicas?”
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💡Important historical aspect
Mulberry began adding metal discs to select bags from the 1990s. During this transitional period, however, many models did not have serial numbers – only the wooden logo on the front. This is completely normal for vintage bags and not in itself a sign of a copy.
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Modern exceptions – not all bags have a metal disc
Since 2016, Mulberry has gradually removed the classic metal plate with the serial number on a number of new models. This is part of the brand’s rebranding under Johnny Coca and Thierry Andretta, which introduced a more minimalist and modern look.
Models without a metal plate (fully or partially):
• Softie
• Iris
• Portobello
• Amberley
• Lily (some newer versions)
• Other collections with softer silhouettes
This phasing out of sheet metal has been gradual and has spanned almost a decade. In 2025, only two models with a metal plate and serial number can still be found on Mulberry’s official website: the classic Bayswater and certain versions of the Lily.
• On the Lily Medium, the metal plate is available in all colors.
• On the Lily in the classic size, the plate is only preserved in the basic colors.
• New seasonal colors such as Orchid Bloom Heavy Grain, Brighton Blue Heavy Grain and Chalk Heavy Grain are already produced without a plate – as part of the rebranding.
The decision was driven by several factors: the desire for a more minimalist and modern look, reducing weight and wear on the leather, and the fact that the metal plate was increasingly copied by counterfeiters and therefore lost its value as a marker of authenticity. Instead, Mulberry chose to enhance the overall look through materials, stitching, and hardware, which better reflects the brand’s contemporary luxury aesthetic.
💡 The absence of a metal plate or serial number is not a sign of a copy, as long as the bag otherwise complies with Mulberry’s official standards.
7. Where is the bag made? – and what does the label reveal?
Mulberry still produces many bags in Somerset, England, but over the years, production has also taken place in other countries:
• England
• Turkey
• China
• Italy
• Vietnam
• Spain (only on older/vintage models – bags are no longer produced here)
💡 Expert tip: Pay attention to the letter “g” in “England”
When assessing the authenticity of a Mulberry bag marked “Made in England”, it is important to take a closer look at the font – especially the letter “g” in the word “England”.
- On a genuine bag, the font will be elegant and well-balanced, with a characteristic and complete design of the letter “g”.
- On the other hand, if you see a label where “g” differs significantly – as shown in our example with a non-authentic label – we can safely say that the bag is a copy.
This detail is often overlooked, but the typography in particular reveals a lot about authenticity. At luxurybags.co.uk we have many years of experience in identifying these differences, and we are happy to share our knowledge to help you avoid buying the wrong thing.
Important: A genuine Mulberry bag may well have been manufactured outside of England. Especially newer collections and certain vintage models were produced in other countries – this is not in itself a sign of a copy.
Typical labels
Since approx. Since 1990, genuine Mulberry bags have had a production code on the back of the label, indicating the country of manufacture.
Front of the label: “Made in [country: England, Turkey, China, Spain, Italy, Vietnam]” – indicates the country where the bag was made.
Back of the label: Indicates the production code.
• The production code can consist of:
– one letter (e.g. Q)
– two letters (e.g. VY)
– three letters (e.g. REI)
– one letter and one number (e.g. C1)
– two letters and one number (e.g. MW6)
Why are production codes used?
• They allow Mulberry to identify the exact production location and batch.
• They are used internally for traceability and quality control.
• They contribute to transparency and support a consistently high quality in production.
• For experienced experts – like at Luksustasker.dk – the codes act as an additional check for authentication. A code must match the model, time period and country of production.
• Inconsistencies in the codes are often a clear sign of copies, even when other details may seem correct.
💡 Expert advice: The production code is an important clue in authentication, but can never stand alone. It should always be evaluated together with other factors such as leather, stitching, hardware, logo and the metallic disc (medal), if the bag has one.
💡 Expert tip:If the back of the black label with “Made in …” has the letter “X”, it is a sign of a copy – Mulberry never uses “X” in their authentic production codes.
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Vintage variants without textile label
Some older models have no textile label at all. Instead, the Mulberry logo and the text “Made in England” are embossed directly into the leather on an inner leather flap. This is especially seen on bags from the 1980s and early 1990s and is completely normal for these vintages.
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Read more in our blog post: “Are all Mulberry bags “Made in England”? – and why it’s not always the case”
8. Final advice: What should you always check when assessing the authenticity of a Mulberry bag?
A serial number is an important element in authenticating a Mulberry bag – but it should never stand alone. A true assessment requires looking at the overall look and feel of the bag. Here are the most important factors you should consider in combination:
Is the leather consistent with the type Mulberry used on that particular model and vintage? Examples:
- Darwin leather in vintage Bayswater bags
- Classic Grain in newer models
- Silky Calf on smooth, elegant bags
💡 Expert advice: The leather should have a natural texture, patina and glow – not appear plasticky, flat or smell chemical.
- The construction and finish of the bag
- The stitching should be straight, tight and symmetrical
- The edges should be cleanly processed and sealed
- No loose threads, uneven stitches or asymmetry
Poor craftsmanship often reveals copies – even when the materials seem genuine at first glance.
- Logo and branding
- The wooden logo (on metal disc or embossing stamp) must be sharp and identical to Mulberry’s official design
- The font must be correct: not too bold, no serifs, and with precise spacing
- The embossing or printing must be smooth and clear
You can read more about the details you should always pay attention to in this blog’s point 5: “How to recognize the branding and logo on a real Mulberry bag” – here we go through in detail the typical characteristics of real Mulberry logos, including location, font, shape of the tree symbol and common mistakes on copies.
- Metal details and hardware
- Zippers must be from approved suppliers – for example Riri or Mulberry’s own with an embossed tree logo. On newer models, quality zippers without a logo can also be seen, but still carefully selected to the brand’s standards.
Context:
– Vintage models from the 1990s and early 2000s are often equipped with Riri zippers, which were one of Mulberry’s most important suppliers during this period.
– From approx. 2005 to 2013 Mulberry zippers with embossed wooden logo
– Newer bags (from 2016 onwards) often have unsigned zippers – still of high quality
- Buckles and chains should be solid, heavy and with a uniform finish
- Engravings should be sharp and correctly placed
Copies often have hollow metals, painted hardware or irregular engravings.
- Metal plate and serial number
- The disc should be solid brass, with the wooden logo in embossed form and a smooth surface
- The serial number on the back should be:
– Laser engraved in white
– Centered and unique
– Without black paint, dots or blurred font
Read more in our blog post: “What does a genuine Mulberry serial number look like – and which numbers are typically used on copies?”
- Interior labels and lining
- Lining should be made of cotton canvas, suede or have a discreet wood logo pattern
- Labels should be correctly positioned and contain a production code – note that there should never be an “X” on the back
- On vintage bags, the logo and “Made in England” can be embossed directly into the leather – without a separate label – depending on the model and vintage
Read more in our blog post: “Are all Mulberry bags ‘Made in England’?”
- Color and model match
- Is the color original for the specific model and vintage?
- Is the combination found in Mulberry’s official collections?
Copies often have colors or leather types that have never been produced by Mulberry.
Does the condition of the bag show a natural correlation with its age? Light patina and age can occur – but many vintage bags are preserved in very good condition.
- Suspicious new hardware on an older model
- Or vice versa – unnatural wear without explanation
can be warnings, especially if other details also seem wrong.
- History and documentation
- Does the original receipt, dustbag or box come with it?
- Although it is not a requirement, it is a good sign of origin.
At luksustasker.dk we often experience that it is rare to find older vintage bags with the original receipt or full documentation. Even newer pre-loved models are sometimes sold without a receipt – e.g. if the bag was a gift or the documents have been lost.
If the receipt or documents are present, it can be positive – but it is important not to consider it as a guarantee of authenticity. Unfortunately, counterfeit receipts and boxes do occur.
That’s why we always evaluate a bag based on the overall whole: materials, stitching, hardware, serial numbers, logo and other key factors – not just on documentation.
- Overall harmony and feel
- Does the bag feel “real”?
A copy often reveals itself in an imbalance between materials, proportions and finish.
Example: cheap leather combined with fine hardware – or a strange shape that doesn’t match the original.
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At luksustasker.dk we evaluate each individual bag based on around 30 details – not only the serial number, but also materials, construction, model history and the authenticity of each component.
You are always welcome to contact us if you would like more information about a specific bag that is available. on our website.
The code W is one of the typical examples that can be found on the back of the black textile label in bags made in England in the period approx. 1990–2000.
The code LX is one of the typical examples that can be found on the back of the black textile label in bags made in Turkey in the period approx. 1990–2000.
The code ZU is one of the typical examples that can be found on the back of the black textile label in bags made in China in the period approx. 1990–2000.
The examples here show labels with the text Made in England, where the fake fonts differ clearly from the original Mulberry font and appear less precise in the details.
